Otrar

Otrar

Among a few scattered historical sites which managed to survive there is perhaps the most fascinating and certainly the most mysterious place – the mausoleum pf Arystan-nan and the ruined ancient cities of Otrar. It lies about 150km northwest of Shymkent - the town that brought Genghiz Khan to Central Asia.

The history of the city dates back to nearly 2 thousand years. The city raised its prominence as one of the richest cities along the Silk Road. At the center of all this trade, Otrar was truly at the center of every compass direction. The arts, sciences, and philosophy flourished here in ways nearly unknown to the most in the West today. Then in 1219 Genghis Khan on his Central Asia invasion route destroyed everything he could reach – and his horde could reach far. Otrar held out the siege for 6 months before the Mongols breached the walls and slaughtered nearly everyone inside, as was the practice when the citizenry resisted.

The most captivating thing about the site is not what’s been excavated but what still remains buried. History literally lays underfoot every step. Walking not only kicks up clouds of fone powdery dust, it reveals dazzling pieces of ancient pottery in various colors. Earthy-red, shockin yellow, emerald green and the region’s famous sky-blue turquoise glazed and unglazed saucers, plates, cups, bowls, urns – their pieces and remnants are scattered all over the place.

Sadly, there’s not much left of the town that once covered 20 hectares, though preservation work by Unesco archaeologists promises to make more of it accessible to the casual tourist (Otrar is now a UNESCO World Heritage site). Among the places to see – a bathhouse, well and stone basin with Arbic script, and mosque, all from the 12 to 16 centuries, and the Palace of Berdibek, the Tamerlane himself died in 1405. Ortrar was the birthplace of the famous Islamic scientist, mathematician, and astronomer Abu Nasr al-Farabi.

Close to the ruins is the intact 14th-century Arystan-Bab Mausoleum (Father Arystan is his title of respect, not biology). This is the tomb of an early mentor of Kozha Akhmed Yasaui, (the famous Sufi poet-preacher to whom the arts-loving tyrant Tamerlane dedicated his architectural masterwork in Turkistan) and an important stopover on the later pilgrimage to Turkistan. The Al-Farabi museum is 5km away at the village of Shauldir and includes some findings from Otrar. The road to Shauildir and Otrar is from Tortkol, 95km north of Shymkent on the Turkistan road. Shauildir is 50km west of Tortkol. Altex can take you there.

Altex (mobile 8 300 322 53 16, in Shymkent 3252 32 20 08; altextravel@nursat.kz) This Shymkent-based tour operator maintains a permanent camp of metal box cabins in a pretty location in a canyon beside the Sayram River, 70km from Shymkent. The cabins are surprisingly comfortable, and there’s a traditional log banya in the woods. A three-day/two-night trip runs to about US$120, including food, guide and transfers from Shymkent.